A Certain Tear of Unification Within Telfar

By: Madison Johnson

The Ideology Of Telfar

If I walk along the streets of a few major cities, I’ll see an assortment of accessories on the backs of a semi-diverse crowd. Perhaps, a few brands you can recognize are; Prada shades, Chanel earrings, Versace overcoats, and a YSL handbag. Moreover, you’ll ask me where I am. And in response, I’ll answer somewhere like “strolling down Soho” or “Leaping around town in LA”. You won’t expect me to say you’re town because those accessories are simply for a certain demographic, as are many luxury items. The Telfar Bag is an inspiration against all luxury brands because of its inclusivity. Perhaps if I witness a Telfar owner, your town would be stated on the list.

The “Bushwick Birkin'' began as a vision for Telfar Clemons, the queer Liberian-American designer, a few years ago. Three CFDA awards and multiple collaborations later, Telfar has risen to be a staple bag in many people’s closets. Easily seen on any street you can think of ranging from three sizes and a multitude of colors. People grew fond of the bag for its simplicity and sustainable material. However, what especially hooked people was that Telfar, despite being luxury, is far more affordable than traditional luxury brands. This was Clemon’s mission statement from the get-go. Accessibility. The brand’s slogan is “Not for you—for everyone” brushing the brand with a unique ideology that luxury fashion shouldn’t have to be so exclusive, everyone should be able to have at least one item they are proud to show off and flaunt.

The Black-Owned Objective & Telfar Acknowledgement

Telfar gained a specific adoration from the Black community most likely because there was finally a prominent Black representation within the luxury fashion community. Telfar’s success is a glimmer of contingency for Black voices within the fashion industry. Predominantly Black cities/ areas such as Atlanta, certain boroughs of NYC, and even here in the DMV are no strangers to the mystical Telfar bag.

The Telfar Bag seems to be overall a positive step in a new direction for the luxury fashion industry. And although Telfar stands in essence, solo, of Black-owned, queer-owned, accessible luxury fashion, there is no doubt that the brand itself is inspiring many other diverse artists and designers to step up to the plate, following the footprint in the sand that Telfar left.

With all of Telfar’s positive influence, there are bound to be a few bumps within the media about the traction of the bag.

There is a section of individuals, within the Black community that is a bit uneasy with the thought of a white person carrying the infamous monogrammed pouch over their bodice. The statement amongst these individuals is that it doesn’t make too much sense why a white person would be interested in a Telfar Bag anyways. This creed exists within small boroughs of the media, but it is indeed prominent, and depending on who you speak to, they might agree.

After browsing through multiple forums, there is indeed a mix of opinions on the issue. There is one side of the spectrum that doesn’t see too much of a problem with it; people feel that the more people who know about Telfar, the more people its mission statement can touch and inspire. However, the opposing side of this says, Telfar being too accessible takes away the safety it had for the black community. Black people finally felt listened to within the luxury fashion industry and now that the brand is becoming outreached to white individuals, the process of gentrification is underway. This makes the bag feel less for who it was “intended for”.

Clemon’s never outright said that Telfar was a “black person bag” this appellation was bestowed upon the bag from the buyers. Telfar was always very candid with its statement, “Not for you—for everyone.” However, this then poses the question of who “you” is.

Some people would argue that this discomfort of white people wearing Telfar bags is ludicrous, it is simply a bag, and anyone should be able to wear it, no matter the race. Those same people would argue that nitpicking is the exact reason why certain aspects of society will never be able to blend in harmony, because, in this world, color cannot help but be seen, resulting in a clear divide between specific people. No matter the industry, no matter the time. Then, there are the other people. These people say “Obviously color will be seen” and that society should accommodate these differences, starting with certain industries and ending in who knows where.

The dispute about Telfar isn’t about the bag itself, it’s about what the bag meant for Black people. Luxury fashion is a white-dominated industry, it always has been. When you look at these brands such as Versace, Prada, Louis Vuitton, etc. These brands wear white faces and have continued to for decades. It was clear in the very beginning that black people were never their target demographic. The exclusivity is what made these brands thrive and there was a sense of closeness to keep certain classes out. This is why the price tags of their goods weren’t shocking for their shoppers, who were for a while, more white people. Why? Because everyone in the world knows, white people have always been paid more than Black people.

The Shifting Of Times & Telfar Luxury

Times are changing indeed but this premise will never cease to have existed. Telfar, rising in notability to be a luxury brand while keeping its fairer price, led Black people to feel that they finally had a place. It was not exclusively said but it could doubtlessly be perceived that Black people specifically were being included in the luxury fashion industry. When viewed from this perspective, it isn’t alarming that there would be a sense of defensiveness when a socially-expected Prada customer is shopping for a more affordable luxury accessory.

Along with this, there is an impending fear that once gentrification has started to take its course, brands begin to change. This has been a force that has happened three times over in many other communities especially the hair care community. It is less of the brand finally getting recognition, but when white people act on their curiosities, leading to indulgence in a brand, and recommendations to inner circles, and next thing you know, prices are raised and ingredients are changed. This is not always a negative consequence. However, it always depends on who you ask.

Over time, people change, along with the brands they buy from.

Many people are overjoyed that Telfar is a bag that multiple people from different backgrounds can buy. Other people might take some time to ease up to the idea that their staple brand is becoming more sought after by white people. The truth is, this conversation won’t cease and will tumble on and on until the end of time. On the opposite side of the spectrum, generational shoppers of Louis Vuitton could be cringing at the fact that now that society is changing, and people are getting paid more, Louis Vuitton bags have a more diverse audience than before. So much that someone could find a Louis bag hanging upright on a thrift store rack, ready to be bargained for.

CONCLUSION:

Either way, the fashion industry will only evolve and perhaps one day, exclusivity will be the antagonist of the community instead of the one thing holding it together. And perhaps that day will be a prosperous one, but then again it depends on who you ask.

EXTERNAL RESOURCES

DCUM Forum. DC Urban Moms and Dads. (n.d.). Retrieved January 10, 2023, from https://www.dcurbanmom.com/jforum/forums/list.page

R/telfar - am I okay to wear a telfar bag? reddit. (n.d.). Retrieved January 10, 2023, from https://www.reddit.com/r/Telfar/comments/vly64l/am_i_okay_to_wear_a_telfar_bag/

Newman, S. (2022, April 5). What's behind the criticism of Telfar? The Cut. Retrieved January 10, 2023, from https://www.thecut.com/2022/04/telfar-criticized-black-owned.html

Dillard, B. M. (2022, May 5). 5 Telfar shopping bags that white people will buy out before you even open the website. Reductress. Retrieved January 10, 2023, from https://reductress.com/post/5-telfar-shopping-bags-that-white-people-will-buy-out-before-you-